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Wacker unveils skin care and silicone wax ingredients

These biotech-derived ingredients form part of a growing portfolio of highly technical ingredients that have been developed to provide breakthrough solution for a range of skin care and hair care products.

Known as Cavamax, the a-cyclodectrin/linoleic acid complex has been developed for skin care products and is thought to be one of the first times that linoleic acid has been succesfully incorporporated into a cosmetic ingredient.

This is because the substance oxidizes rapidly upon contact with air and light, rendering it useless and giving it a rancid smell, which made it extremely difficult to formulate, despite its strong restorative properties.

However, Wacker has been able to develop the ingredient by complexing the linoleic acid with cyclodextrins stabilizers, which entrap the active properties in a cavity, preventing it from oxidizing and going off.

This process, it is claimed, also helps to alter the consistency of the ingredient, producing an odourless powder that is simple to formulate, as opposed to the more complicated oil-based formula.

The linoleic acid in Cavamax is also said to provide retinol or tocopherol, which are natural lipophillic antioxidants that prevent signs of ageing and can restore skin damage caused by UV exposure, making it ideal for anti-wrinkle products as well as a variety of sun screen and self-tanning products.

Meanwhile the company is also introducing its silicone waxes, developed for a wide spectrum of shampoo and conditioner products. The two latest ingredients in this range include CDM 3526 VP and high-melting CM 2026 VP.

Silicones have become an increasingly important to part of cosmetics formulations in recent years, playing in important part as texturing agents as well as conditioners and dermal protection. In this particular instance the ingredients have been developed for hair care products to provide added texture, volume and conditioning properties to hair.

The company is also introducing two new silicone elastomer gels. RG100 is a colourless translucent gel with strong water and transfer resistance for a wide range of skin care and cosmetic products, while RPG33 has similar properties to RG100, but comes in a powder form, making it easier to incorporate into products such as rouge or eyeshadow.

The latest additions to the Wacker portfolio were all presented at the recent In-Cosmetics show, held in Barcelona, Spain.