Makeup guru advices
Use too much highlighter below the brow and you'll resemble a drag queen. Invest the time to do your makeup or don't complain.
Clinique makeup artist Paul Innis is opinionated and vocal when it
comes to his views on women and cosmetics. ``I hate, hate tattooed
eyebrows!'' Innis says. ``What is the point? It looks like tattooed
eyebrows, not little hairs!''
Innis was at Nordstrom in Valley Fair last weekend, taking
consultation appointments and advising Clinique makeup artists on such
matters as blush placement and eye shadow blending.
One of Innis' areas of expertise is in applying makeup on women of
color. His clients and fans include Rosario Dawson, Daisy Fuentes and
Naomie Harris. He's done makeup for Brazilian supermodel Gisele
Bundchen, too. He believes the right makeup can magically transform
plain Janes into hot and confident Janes.
Before I met with Innis, I asked friends and co-workers of different
ethnicities to give me a question I could ask that would address a
specific need common to their skin type, coloring or facial structure.
Their questions and his answers:
Problem: Foundations don't match or look too matte and dark on skin.
Solution: Black skin absorbs rather than reflects light, so use a
lighter-toned concealer on the T-zone of your face. ``If you're
African-American, take a close look in the mirror. You'll see that your
skin is naturally lighter in the middle of your face. Think in terms of
a flashbulb from a camera going off in your face, and apply the
foundation down the center of your nose and outward toward cheeks. Then
blend carefully into the foundation that matches your real skin color.''
Problem: Dark under-eye circles.
Solution: ``Indian women can be fair but still have the dark,
shadowy circles under their eyes. Make sure to use a concealer that
lightens and brightens and is rich enough for full coverage. Otherwise
it can turn gray as it wears off, and the skin underneath starts to
Problem: Small eyes.
Solution: Apply a thin line of eyeliner along the upper lashes that
extends past the natural eye, and be sure to flip the ends up.
``Otherwise, you'll look droopy.'' Line the lower lashes with a dark
brown eye shadow that can be deliberately smudged to give eyes more
depth and the illusion of size. ``Invest the time to practice applying
eye shadow.'' If you're a novice, get advice from an expert. Makeup
artists often make appearances at department stores such as Nordstrom.
Problem: Large pores and keeping neck and decolletage youthful.
Solution: Use pore minimizing makeup and primers to camouflage pores
and ``don't put any shine on your face. Keep everything matte.'' Use
the same skin care products on the neck area and be sure to use
sunblock on every patch of skin that shows, including the neckline and