Saccharide isomerate - Szechuan peppercorn

saccharide isomerate. Good water-binding agent and emollient for skin. See mucopolysaccharide.

Saccharomyces calcium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of calcium ions. There is no known benefit for skin.

Saccharomyces copper ferment. Saccharomyces, from the Latin, literally means “sugar fungus,” and is the scientific name for the yeasts used in fermentation. There are many versions of this fungus fermented with various compounds; this version is fermented in the presence of copper ions. There is no known benefit for skin, though it may have antioxidant properties.

Saccharomyces iron ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of iron ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces magnesium ferment. The extract of yeast fermented in the presence of magnesium ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces officinarum ferment. Derived from the sugarcane plant. Glycolic acid is also derived from sugarcane, but sugarcane extract does not have the same exfoliating properties as glycolic acid. There is no research showing sugarcane extract has any benefit for skin. See AHA.

Saccharomyces potassium ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of potassium ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces silicon ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of silicon ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

Saccharomyces zinc ferment. Extract of yeast fermented in the presence of zinc ions. See Saccharomyces copper ferment.

safflower oil. Emollient plant oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. Safflower oil can be an antioxidant when consumed in the diet, but whether it retains this benefit when applied topically to skin is unknown. See natural moisturizing factors.

sage extract. Can be a potent antioxidant (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, March 2002, pages 1845–1851). However, its fragrant camphor and phenol components can also cause skin irritation (Source: Clinical Toxicology, December 1981, pages 1485–1498).

salicylic acid. Referred to as beta hydroxy acid (BHA), it is a multifunctional ingredient that addresses many of the systemic causes of blemishes (Source: Seminars in Dermatology, December 1990, pages 305–308). For decades dermatologists have been prescribing salicylic acid as an exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant This is because salicylic acid is a derivative of aspirin (both are salicylates—aspirin’s technical name is acetyl salicylic acid), and so it also functions as an anti-inflammatory. (Sources: Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531–1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137–142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390–1395; and Pain, January 1996, pages 71–82). Another notable aspect of salicylic acid for treating breakouts is that it has antimicrobial properties (Source: Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing; and Health Canada Monograph Category IV, Antiseptic Cleansers, at www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/). It is also well documented that it can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production (Sources: Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50–53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, Volume 175, Issue 1, pages 76–82). As an exfoliant, in concentrations of 8% to 12%, it is effective in wart-remover medications. In concentrations of 0.5% to 2%, it is far more gentle, and, much like AHAs (See AHAs), can exfoliate the surface of skin. In addition, BHA has the ability to penetrate into the pore (AHAs do not), and thus can exfoliate inside the pore as well on the surface of the skin; that makes it effective for reducing blemishes, including blackheads and whiteheads.

Sambucus cerulea. Blue elderberry. May have antioxidant properties for skin (Source: Phytotherapy Research, February 2002, pages 63–65). See elderberry.

sandalwood oil. Fragrant oil that can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions (Source: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, June 1996, pages 77–83). There is one animal study showing it to have antitumor properties (Source: European Journal of Cancer Prevention, October 1999, pages 449–455).

Sang zhi. Derived from twigs of the mulberry tree. It has some effectiveness for reducing skin swelling.

Sapindus mukurossi extract. Derived from a plant indigenous to India, and known for its detergent cleansing properties. See saponin.

saponin. Group of natural carbohydrates found in plants that have considerable potential as pharmaceutical and/or nutraceutical agents in natural or synthetic form. Saponins, from a variety of sources, have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. (Sources: Fitoterapia, July 2002, page 336; Phytotherapy Research, March 2001, pages 174–176; Drug Metabolism and Drug Interaction, 2000, volume 17, issue 1-4, pages 211–235).

saturated fat. Type of fat usually of animal origin. Chemically, when fatty acid chains can’t accommodate any more hydrogen atoms, they are considered saturated, as in saturated fatty acids. These are used as emollient in skin-care products.

sausurrea oil. Costus oil. Volatile oil and fragrant component used in cosmetics; it can be a skin irritant. It is known to cause contact dermatitis (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com)

saw palmetto. Plant extract that, when taken orally, has been shown in short-term trials to be efficacious in reducing the symptoms of benign prostatic hyperplasia (Source: Annals of Internal Medicine, January 2002, pages 42–53). It may have an anti-inflammatory effect on skin, but there is little research supporting this. Saw palmetto’s reputation is primarily based on the fact that it can reduce the presence of the male hormone dihydrotestosterone, and so it could theoretically reduce hair loss, but this effect has not been proven. There is some anecdotal information that it can also have estrogenic effects; but not only is that unlikely, it is highly improbable that it could have such effects when applied topically (Source: Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/Herb/Saw_Palmetto.cfm).

Scalp Oils. The botanical essential oils develop quick penetration into the deeper layers of the skin to help reduce the inflammation, and regenerate the normal epidermal cells.

scar camouflage Skin Camouflage is useful cosmetic for covering skin defects. Sheer foundation needs two applications for moderate coverage, opaque foundation covers moderately on the first coat. After drying, excess powder may be removed by a complexion brush.

sclareolide. Fermented from clary sage and used as a fragrant component in cosmetics.

scullcap extract. Herbal extract from Scutellaria baicalensis that has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties for skin (Source: Life Sciences, January 2002, pages 1023–1033).

sea salt. Can be effective as a topical scrub, but if left on skin it can increase skin sensitivity to UVB radiation (Source: Der Hautarzt, June 1998, pages 482–486).

sea whip extract. Extract from a creature that inhabits coral reefs, known for its anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Life Sciences, May 22, 1998, pages 401–407) and antibacterial properties (Source: Journal of Natural Products, January 2001, pages 100–102).

seaweed. Group of sea plants (scientific name algae) of all sizes and shapes, and having a gelatin-like consistency. Many seaweeds have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, but many other claims of benefits are not proven. See algae.

Sechium edule extract. Extract of the chayote plant. There is a small amount of research showing it to have antioxidant properties (Source: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 1991, volume 11, number 4, pages 379–383).

Sedum rosea root extract. Plant extract; there is no research showing it to have any benefit for skin (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

selenium. Mineral considered to be a potent antioxidant (Source: Biomedicine and Pharmacotherapy, June 2002, pages 173–178). See antioxidant.

self-heal. Plant that has antihistamine, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antioxidant properties when taken orally (Sources: Life Sciences, January 2000, pages 725–735; Planta Medica, May 2000, pages 358–360; and Immunopharmacology and Immunotoxicology, August 2001, pages 423–435). However, there is no research demonstrating this to be of benefit for skin when applied topically.

Semi - Permanent Cosmetics: (includes: semi permanent color, semi permanent cosmetic, semi permanent cosmetic, semi permanent eye make up , semi permanent eyebrow make up , semi permanent eyeliner , semi permanent lip color , semi permanent lip make up , semi permanent lipstick , semi permanent make up and cosmetic , semi-permanent cosmetics , semi-permanent eyeliner , semi-permanent lip , semi-permanent lip stick) Not ink, just the staying power of ink. Long Lasting.

sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is irritated easily and will show in small bumps, inflammation, red patches and peeling and flaking.

sensitive skin care Healing the skin and keeping it healthy are of primary importance both in preventing further damage and enhancing the patient's quality of life. Developing and following a daily skin care routine is critical to preventing recurrent episodes of symptoms. Key factors are proper bathing and the application of lubricants, such as creams or ointments, within 3 minutes of bathing. People with atopic dermatitis should avoid hot or long (more than 10 to 15 minutes) baths and showers. A lukewarm bath helps to cleanse and moisturize the skin without drying it excessively

Sequoiadendron gigantea stem extract. Extract from part of the giant sequoia tree. There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit for skin.

sesame oil. Emollient oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

shampoo Cleansing agent consisting of soaps or detergents used for washing the hair.

shampoo conditioner Hair conditions help make hair more manageable and often impart a smoother and softer texture.

shea butter. A plant lipid that is used as an emollient in cosmetics. See natural moisturizing factors.

sheer makeup. (to include: sheer cover make up , sheer cover mineral make up, sheer foundation, sheer mineral make up). Thin, fine, and transparent.

shikonin. Common name for the Chinese plant Zi Cao, source of a plant extract with supposedly anti-inflammatory properties. There is no research substantiating its effect on skin.

Shorea stenoptera butter. Fat obtained from the Borneo tallow nut. It is similar to cocoa and shea butter, and has emollient properties for skin.

Siegesbeckia orientalis. Chinese herb (also known as St. Paul’s wort); there is no research showing that it has any benefit for skin.

silica. Mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals. It is the principal ingredient of glass. In cosmetics it is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent.

silicone. Substance derived from silica (sand is a silica). The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip and in its various forms it can feel like silk on the skin, impart emolliency, and be a water-binding agent that holds up well, even when skin becomes wet. In other forms, it is also used extensively for wound healing and for improving the appearance of scars (Source: Journal of Wound Care, July 2000, pages 319–324).

silk protein. Protein substance (also called sericin) formed by converting silk, which is the soft, lustrous thread obtained from the cocoon of the silkworm. Silk protein can have water-binding properties for skin. However, whether the protein applied to skin is derived from animals or plants, the skin can’t tell the difference. There is a small amount of research showing silk protein to have topical antioxidant properties (Source: Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, January 1998, pages 145–147).

silver. Metal that in cosmetics can have disinfecting properties; however, prolonged contact can turn skin grayish-blue. Silver can be irritating to skin, and can cause silver toxicity (Sources: Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, February 2002, pages 217–219; and Critical Reviews in Toxicology, May 1996, pages 255–260). See silver sulfadiazine.

silver sulfadiazine. Can be effective for wound healing (Source: Journal of Vascular Surgery, August 1992, pages 251–257). However, it is safe for skin only for short-term use, because silver can penetrate abraded skin and cause silver toxicity (Source: Clinical Chemistry, February 1997, pages 290–301).

Skeletonema costatum extract. From a type of marine diatom. There is no research showing it to have benefit for skin.

skin care product Skin care is of particular importance for most of people, often use cosmetics to deal with the condition of the skin, such as those for pore control and black head cleansing.

skin moisturizer Something that helps the skin retain its natural moisture or adds moisture. Some herbs have moisturizing capabilities, and certain essential oils such as Jasmine oil and Rose oil when added to lotions and creams can increase the moisturizing capability of these products.

skin pigmentation Human skin color can range from almost black to pinkish white in different people. In general, people with ancestors from sunny regions have darker skin than people with ancestors from regions with less sunlight. (However, this is complicated by the fact that there are people whose ancestors come from both sunny and less-sunny regions; and these people may have skin colors across the spectrum). On average, women have slightly lighter skin than men.

slip agent. Term used to describe a range of ingredients that help other ingredients spread over the skin and help ingredients penetrate into the skin. Slip agents also have humectant properties. Slip agents include propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polysorbates, and glycerin, to name a few. They are as basic to the world of skin care as water.

soap. True "soaps" are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and are not required to list their ingredients on the label. They are solely made up of fats and alkali. Many bar cleansers are not soaps, but contain synthetic detergent cleansing agents and various thickening agents that keep the bar in its bar form. Most soaps are considered very drying and potentially irritating for skin due to their alkaline base (having a pH over 8). Bar cleansers can be more gentle than bar soaps, but are more often than not still drying, depending on their composition (Sources: Cutis, December 2001, pages 12–19; Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 2001, pages 308–318; and Dermatologic Clinics, October 2000, pages 561–575).

soapwort. Plant providing an extract with detergent cleansing properties. There is some research showing it to have antiviral and antibacterial properties (Sources: Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications, May 1997, pages 129–132; and Phytotherapy Research, 1990, volume 4, pages 97–100).

sodium bisulfite. Used in acid-type permanent waves to alter the shape of hair. It is less damaging than alkaline permanent waves, but it also has limitations regarding how much change it can effect in hair. It can be a skin irritant.

sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate. Can be derived from coconut. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent, but is considered potentially drying and irritating for skin. See surfactant.

sodium chloride. Common table salt. Used primarily as a binding agent in skin-care products and occasionally as an abrasive in scrub products.

sodium cocoate. Used as a cleansing agent primarily in soaps. It can be drying and irritating for skin.

sodium cocoyl isethionate. Derived from coconut; it is a mild detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

sodium hydroxide. Also known as lye, it’s a highly alkaline ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to modulate the pH of a product. It is also used as a cleansing agent in some cleansers. In higher concentrations it is a significant skin irritant.

sodium laureth sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; it is used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent. It is considered gentle and effective. See surfactant.

sodium laureth-13 carboxylate. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent. See surfactant.

sodium lauryl sulfate. There has been a great of misinformation about sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) being circulated on the Internet. Used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent SLS can be derived from coconut. Although it is a potent skin irritant it is not toxic or dangerous for skin. In concentrations of 2% to 5%, SLS can cause allergic or sensitizing reactions in lots of people. It is used as a standard in scientific studies to establish irritatancy or sensitizing properties of other ingredients (Sources: European Journal of Dermatology, September-October 2001, pages 416–419; American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, March 2001, pages 28–32; and Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2000, pages 246–257). Being a skin irritant, however, is not the same as a link to cancer, which is what erroneous warnings on the Internet are falsely claiming about this ingredient!

According to Health Canada, in a press release of February 12, 1999 (www.hc-sc.gc.ca/), “A letter has been circulating the Internet which claims that there is a link between cancer and sodium laureth (or lauryl) sulfate (SLS), an ingredient used in [cosmetics]. Health Canada has looked into the matter and has found no scientific evidence to suggest that SLS causes cancer. It has a history of safe use in Canada. Upon further investigation, it was discovered that this e-mail warning is a hoax. The letter is signed by a person at the University of Pennsylvania Health System and includes a phone number. Health Canada contacted the University of Pennsylvania Health System and found that it is not the author of the sodium laureth sulfate warning and does not endorse any link between SLS and cancer. Health Canada considers SLS safe for use in cosmetics. Therefore, you can continue to use cosmetics containing SLS without worry.” Further, according to the American Cancer Society’s Web site (www.cancer.org), “Contrary to popular rumors on the Internet, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) do not cause cancer. E-mails have been flying through cyberspace claiming SLS [and SLES] causes cancer … and is proven to cause cancer.... [Yet] A search of recognized medical journals yielded no published articles relating this substance to cancer in humans.” See surfactant.

sodium metabisulfite. Reducing agent that alters the structure of hair. It can also be used as a preservative in formulations, and can be a skin irritant. However, it can also be an antioxidant (Source: Journal of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, September-October 1999, pages 252–259).

sodium PCA. PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It is a natural component of skin that is also a very good water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors.

sodium salicylate. Salt form of salicylic acid (BHA). Because it is not the acid form of salicylate (i.e., salicylic acid), it does not have exfoliating properties.

sodium silicate. A highly alkaline and potentially irritating antiseptic and mineral used in cosmetics (Source: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, September 2002, pages 133–139).

sodium sulfite. Reducing agent that alters the structure of hair. It can also be used as a preservative in cosmetic formulations, and can be a skin irritant. See reducing agent.

Solanum lycocarpum fruit extract. Also known as wolf’s fruit. There is no research showing this to have benefit for skin, though there is research showing it to have toxic effects when eaten (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, July 2002, pages 265–269).

Solanum tuberosum extract. Is potato starch. Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics.

solvent. Describes a large group of ingredients, including water, that are used to dissolve or break down other ingredients in a formulation. Solvents are also used to degrease skin and to remove sebum.

sorbitol. Can be derived synthetically or from natural sources. Similar to glycerin, it is a humectant, thickening agent, and slip agent.

soy extract. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent for skin (Sources: Cancer Investigation, 1996, volume 14, number 6, pages 597–608; and Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 2002, pages 175–183). However, there is no research showing that soy extract or soy oil has estrogenic effects when applied to skin (as it can when taken orally).

soy oil. Emollient oil similar to all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors, and soy extract.

soya sterol. One form of phytosterol. There is no research showing soy sterols to have estrogenic or antioxidant benefit for skin. See phytosterol.

spearmint oil. Fragrant, volatile oil that can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. See counter-irritant.

Spilanthes acmella extract. Plant extract that can have antibacterial properties (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, February 1998, pages 79–84)..

spinach extract. Can have antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, May 2002, pages 3122–3128), but whether benefits can be realized when it is applied topically on skin is not known.

squalene. Oil derived from shark liver or from plants and sebum. It is a natural component of skin and is considered a good emollient that has antioxidant and immune-stimulating properties (Sources: Lancet Oncology, October 2000, pages 107–112; and Free Radical Research, April 2002, pages 471–477). See natural moisturizing factors.

St. John’s wort. Contains several components that are toxic on skin in the presence of sunlight (Sources: Planta Medica, February 2002, pages 171–173; and International Journal of Biochemistry and Cell Biology, March 2002, pages 221–241). St. John’s wort’s association with improving depression when taken as an oral supplement is unrelated to its topical impact on skin. However, it also has potent antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, November 2001, pages 5165–5170).

stearalkonium chloride. Antistatic ingredient used in hair-care products to control flyaways and aid in helping a brush or comb get through hair.

stearic acid. Fatty acid used as an emollient and as an agent to help keep other ingredients intact in a formulation. See fatty acid, and thickening agent.

stearyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient and to help keep the other ingredients intact in a formulation. See fatty alcohols.

Stevia rebaudiana extract. Plant extract called stevioside, a natural, noncaloric sweetener that has been used as a noncaloric sugar substitute in Japan and South America. It has been shown to have “genuine mutagenic” activity (Source: Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, July 2002, pages 1007–1010). There is no research showing this extract to have any benefit when applied topically to skin.

Stick Foundation. The stick foundation formulation is a mix between the compact foundation and liquid foundation. it comes in a stick form and has a creamy texture. When applied and blended, the cream texture will quickly turn into a matte powdery finish. No powdering is required afterwards

strawberry begonia. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin.

strawberry leaves. Can be a skin irritant and skin sensitizer, with no known benefit for skin.

subtilisin. Protease enzyme obtained from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. See proteases.

sucrose. Monosaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin. See mucopolysaccharide, and water-binding agent, and mucopolysaccharide.

sugarcane extract. Ingredients like sugarcane extract, fruit extracts, mixed fruit extracts, and milk solids may claim an association with AHAs, but they are not the same thing nor do they have the same beneficial effect on skin. While glycolic acid can indeed be derived from sugarcane, if you assume that sugarcane will net you the same result as glycolic acid that would be like assuming you could write on a tree the way you can on paper. Wood is certainly where paper begins, but paper wouldn’t exist without the wood undergoing complex mechanical and chemical processes. Similarly, the original forms of these extracts do not have the same effect as the effective ingredients that are derived from them. The same is true for lactic acid, derived from milk. If milk were as acid as lactic acid you would not be able to drink it without serious complications. There is a vast difference between the extracted, pure ingredient and the original form of the source material. See AHA.

sulfur. An antibacterial agent (Source: Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology, October 2001, pages 282–286). It can be a potent skin irritant and sensitizer. Sulfur also has a high pH, which can encourage the growth of bacteria on skin.

suma. Also known as Brazilian ginseng and Pfaffia paniculata. See Pfaffia paniculata extract.

sun protection factor. Most commonly referred to as SPF, it is a number assigned to a product that identifies its ability to protect the skin from sunburn or to protect the skin from turning pink or red when exposed to sun. SPF numbering is regulated by the FDA. It is a measure of the amount of time a person can stay in the sun without getting burned if a sunscreen is applied. Since sunburn results from UVB exposure, not UVA radiation, SPF is primarily a measure of UVB protection. At this time, there is no numbering system to indicate the level of protection a sunscreen can provide from UVA radiation, which affects the deeper layers of skin.

A sunscreen with at least an SPF 15 or higher is universally recommended. Sunscreen must be applied liberally and evenly or the sun-protection value of the product will not be achieved and damage to the skin will occur. It is also essential that the sunscreen contain ingredients (chiefly avobenzone, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide) that protect from UVA damage (Sources: American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2002, volume 3, number 3, pages 185–191; Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, November 15, 2001, pages 105–108); Photodermatology, Photo