C10-18 triglycerides

C10-18 triglycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

C12-18 acid triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

C18-36 acid triglyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

cactus flower extract. There is little information about this plant extract when applied topically, but it may be a skin irritant that causes itching and skin pustules (Sources: Botanical Dermatology Database, http://bodd.cf.ac.uk/BotDermFolder/BotDermC/CACT.html;
and Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

caffeic acid. Potent antioxidant that may have some anticarcinogenic properties (Sources: Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters, June 2002, pages 1567–1570; and Nutrition and Cancer, 1998, volume 32, number 2, pages 81–85).

caffeine. One of a group of alkaloids called methylxanthines. It is a substance with a high tannin content, which constricts skin and can cause irritation. When consumed in coffee, caffeine can be a strong diuretic, but there is no evidence that this effect can result when caffeine is applied to skin (so it would not have the effect of "flushing away" fluid in tissues around the eyes that can accumulate as you sleep). However, there is research that caffeine can have anticancer benefits when consumed along with green or black tea (adding caffeine to the decaffeinated versions of the teas did not work as well as using the caffeinated versions of the teas) (Source: Cancer Research, July 1997, pages 2623–2629). Whether there is any correlation between the effects of consuming caffeine and its effects when applied topically on skin is unknown.

calamine. Preparation of zinc carbonate, colored with ferric oxide (a form of rust). Zinc carbonate is considered a counter-irritant and is used to reduce itching. See counter-irritant.

calcium ascorbate. One form of vitamin C; others include ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. There is very little research concerning its health benefits, either topically or orally, in regard to its antioxidant benefits. See Ester-C.

calcium gluconate. Calcium is an essential mineral for the body. A small amount of research shows it to be a good anti-inflammatory and healing agent when applied topically (Source: Annals of Emergency Medicine, July 1994, pages 9–13).

calcium pantetheine sulfonate. A small amount of in vitro research shows this to have melanin-inhibiting properties (Source: Pigment Cell Research, June 2000, pages 165–171).

calendula extract. Derived from the plant commonly known as pot marigold; there is little research showing it to have any effect on skin, though it may have antibacterial and antioxidant properties for skin.

Calophyllum tacamahaca. Source of a plant oil that has emollient and antimutagenic properties (Source: Phytochemistry, October 2001, pages 571–575).

Camellia sasanqua oil. Plant extract that has emollient properties for skin. There is a small amount of research showing it to have anti-inflammatory properties as well (Source: Phytochemistry, May 1998, pages 301–305).

camphor. Aromatic substance obtained from the wood of a southeast Asian tree, Cinnamomum camphora, or manufactured synthetically. When applied to the skin it produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels, which can cause skin irritation and dermatitis with repeated use (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 923–929; and Clinical Toxicology, December 1981, pages 1485–1498). See counter-irritant.

cananga extract. Fragrance used in cosmetics; it can be a skin irritant, much like ylang-ylang.

candelilla wax. Derived from candelilla plants; used as a thickening agent and emollient to give products such as lipsticks or stick foundations their form.

canola oil. Plant lipid that has barrier-repair and anti-inflammatory properties (Source: British Journal of Dermatology, February 1996, pages 215–220). See natural moisturizing factors.

caprylic/capric triglyceride. Derived from coconut, and considered to be a good emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

capsaicin. Component of capsicum. When used topically, capsaicin can prevent the transmission of pain. It is also a potent topical irritant and can trigger dermatitis. See capsicum.

capsicum. A large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches. Capsicum and substances derived from it can cause allergic reactions or skin irritation and should never be applied to abraded skin (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com). See counter-irritant.

capsicum oleoresin. Fatty resin derived from capsicum plants. It can be a skin irritant and should not be applied to abraded skin. See capsicum.

cardamom. Plant of the ginger family, used as fragrance in cosmetics. Terpene is one of its major constituents, which can be a skin irritant and sensitizer.

Care. 1) mental pain; worry; anxiety 2) close attention; watchfulness; heed 3) a liking or regard (for); inclination (to do) something 4) charge; protection; custody 5) something to worry about, watch over, or attend to.

care makeup Cosmetics or makeup are substances to enhance the beauty of the human body, apart from simple cleaning. Their use is widespread, especially among women in Western countries

care products Cosmetic products use to cleanse, prevent, treat, moisturize and protect the skin.

carnauba wax. Vegetable wax that has a hard, firm texture; it is used in cosmetics as a substantial thickening agent.

carnosic acid. Component of rosemary that is considered a potent antioxidant (Sources: Free Radical Biology and Medicine, June 2002, pages 1293–1303; and Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, March 2002, pages 1845–1851).

carnosine. Composed of amino acids, it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. There is some research showing it to have antiglycation properties (Source: Life Sciences, March 2002, pages 1789–1799).

carob fruit extract. May have antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, Januray 2002, pages 373-377).

carrageenan. Seaweed gum used in cosmetics as a thickening agent with water-binding properties.

carrot extract. Can have antioxidant properties (Source: International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition, November 2001, pages 501–508), but whether it can have that effect when applied topically on skin is not known.

carrot oil. Emollient plant oil similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

carvone. Essential oil used as a flavoring agent and fragrance component in cosmetics. It can be a significant skin sensitizer or allergen (Sources: Planta Medica, August 2001, pages 564–566; and Contact Dermatitis, June 2001, pages 347–356).

casein. Substance derived from milk protein that may have some antioxidant properties when applied topically, although the research for this is limited (Source: International Journal of Food Science and Nutrition, July 1999, pages 291–296).

Cassia angustifolia seed. May have anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Fitoterapia, March 2001, pages 221–229).

castile soap. Uses olive oil instead of animal fat, but that can still be drying to skin.

castor oil. Vegetable oil derived from the castor bean. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient, though its unique property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding properties. It is rarely associated with skin irritation or allergic reactions but it can have a slightly sticky feel on skin.

catalase. Enzyme that decomposes hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen and that has significant antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2002, pages 618–625).

cedarwood. Fragrant plant extract. There is evidence that cedarwood oil is allergenic and can cause skin irritation. There is also a small amount of research showing it produces tumors on mouse skin (Sources: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

celandine. Extract from the plant Chelidonium majus that has some amount of research showing it to have antiviral properties. There is no research showing it have benefit when applied topically.

cellulose. The primary fiber component of plants. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and to bind other ingredients together.

Centella asiatica. Herb that may appear on labels as asiatic acid, hydrocotyl, or gotu kola. It has antibacterial, anti-psoriatic, and wound-healing properties (Sources: Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, May-June 2000, pages 227–234; Phytomedicine, May 2001, pages 230–235; and Contact Dermatitis, October 1993, pages 175–179).

Centipeda cunninghami extract. Derived from an Australian plant commonly known as sneezeweed or old man's weed. It has been used by aborigines for burns, wounds, and skin infections. The only research confirming the effectiveness of this plant extract as an anti-inflammatory, is from the company that owns the patent for its use.

ceramides. Naturally occurring skin lipids (fats) that are major structural components of the skin's outer structure (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1126–1136). Ceramides are necessary for the skin's water-retention capacity as well as cell regulation (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, September-October 2001, pages 261–271).

ceresin. Derived from clay, it is a waxy ingredient used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. It can be sensitizing for some skin types.

ceteareth-20. Fatty alcohol that is used to thicken cosmetics and keep ingredients mixed together and stable.

cetearyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.

cetyl alcohol. Fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. It is not an irritant and is not related to SD alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

chamomile. Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties (Sources: www.herbmed.org; European Journal of Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics, October-December 1999, pages 303–308; and Planta Medica, October 1994, pages 410–413).

chaparral extract. There is conflicting research about its efficacy as an anticancer agent, though it does contain a component that has antioxidant properties (Source: Society for Experimental Biology and Medicine, January 1995, pages 6–12; and www.healthwell.com/healthnotes/). When ingested, it may cause liver toxicity (Sources: Molecular and Cellular Biochemistry, June 1999, pages 157–161; Archives of Internal Medicine, April 1997, pages 913–919; Topically it can have antimicrobial properties (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, June 1996, pages 175–177).

charcoal. Baked wood that is mainly carbon. One teaspoonful of Activated Charcoal USP has a surface area of more than 10,000 square feet, which gives charcoal unique absorption properties. It also can disinfect wounds.

chaste tree fruit extract. One research report says, "In a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial reported in the British Medical Journal (January 20, 2001), German researchers assigned 170 women diagnosed with PMS to a daily [oral] dose of Vitex agnus-castus (chaste tree) extract or to placebo for three menstrual cycles. The women assessed themselves before and after treatment on measures of irritability, mood, anger, headache, bloating, and breast fullness. Clinicians evaluated symptom severity and treatment effects. More than half of the women taking chaste tree fruit extract (popularly known as chasteberry)—compared to slightly less than one-quarter of those on placebo—had a 50% or greater improvement in PMS symptoms (with the exception of bloating)" (Source: Harvard Women's Health Watch newsletter, May 2001). There is no evidence that it can have any effect on skin.

chaulmoogra oil. Once the treatment for leprosy worldwide due to its antimicrobial properties (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, USA, February 2000, pages 1433–1437). It can be a skin irritant.

chicory extract. Has antioxidant properties and may also have anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Archives of Pharmacal Research, October 2001, pages 431–436 and Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

chitosan. Derived from chitin, a polysaccharide found in the exoskeleton of shellfish such as shrimp, lobster, and crabs. It is used widely in pharmaceuticals as a base in formulations. There is also extensive research showing it can be effective in wound healing, as well as having antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties (Sources: Biomaterials, November 2001, pages 2959–2966; International Journal of Food Microbiology, March 2002, pages 65–72; and Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology, August 2001, pages 1047–1067). See mucopolysaccharide.

chlorhexidine. Topical antiseptic, it can cause irritation (Source: Toxicology in Vitro, August-October 2001, pages 271–276).

cholesterol. A phospholipid (a type of human or animal fat) used in cosmetics as a stabilizer, an emollient, and a water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors.

choline. Part of the vitamin B complex and a constituent of many other biologically important molecules, such as acetylcholine (a neurotransmitter) and lecithin.

Cichorium intybus. Source of a plant extract with antioxidant properties (Source: Archives of Pharmaceutical Research, October 2001, pages 431–436).

Cinchona succirubra bark extract. In folk medicine, it is used topically as an astringent, bactericidal, and anesthetic effect. There is no research supporting any of its uses for skin (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

cinnamon. Can have antimicrobial properties (Source: Letters in Applied Microbiology, January 2002, pages 27–31) and can also be a skin irritant.

citric acid. Derived from citrus and used primarily to adjust the pH of products to prevent them from being too alkaline.

citrulline. Amino acid involved in the formation of the amino acid, arginine. Citrulline has been identified in the surface layers of human skin (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 2000, pages 701–705). There is no research showing it to have benefit when applied topically. However, like all amino acids, it most likely has water-binding properties. See amino acid, and natural moisturizing factors.

Citrus aurantium extract. Bitter orange extract. It can have antioxidant properties when eaten (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, December 1999, pages 5239–5244); however, used topically its methanol content makes it potentially irritating for skin.

cleanser. A skin care product used to clean the face. A gentle cleanser is said to be the basis for skin care, with many people advocating its use twice a day.

Clematis vitalba. Plant that may have antifungal properties (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, February 2002, pages 155–163) and may also be a skin sensitizer.

Clintonia borealis extract. There is no research showing this to have any benefit for skin (Source: Phytotherapy Research, February 2002, pages 63–65).

clove oil. Potent skin irritant and inflammatory when used repeatedly (Sources: IFA—International Federation of Aromatherapists, www.int-fed-aromatherapy.co.uk; Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com; and Contact Dermatitis, March 2002, pages 141–144).

clover blossom. Contains eugenol, which can be a skin sensitizer and cause photosensitivity.

cobalt gluconate. Element found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While cobalt plays a vital role in the formation of some body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on skin, though it may act as an antioxidant.

cocamidopropyl betaine. Considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products. See surfactant.

cocoa butter. Oil extracted from cocoa beans, used as an emollient and with properties similar to those of all nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

cocoa extract. Can have potent antioxidant properties (Sources: Experimental Biology and Medicine, May 2002, pages 321–329; and Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, July 2001, pages 3438–3442).

cocoglycerides. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

coconut. Has degreasing and cleansing properties, which is why detergent cleansing agents are frequently derived from coconut oil. See surfactant.

coconut oil. Non-volatile plant kernel oil that has emollient properties for skin.

coenzyme Q10. Only a handful of studies have shown coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) to have any effect on wrinkles (Sources: Biofactors, September 1999, pages 371–378; and Zeitschrift für Gerontologie und Geriatrie, April 1999, pages 83–88). However, neither of these studies was double-blind or placebo-controlled, so there is no way to tell whether other formulations could net the same results. There is also research showing that sun exposure depletes the presence of CoQ10 in the skin (Source: Journal of Dermatological Science Supplement, August 2001, pages 1–4). This isn't surprising, because lots of the skin's components become diminished upon exposure to the sun. But whether or not taking CoQ10 supplements or applying them to skin stops or alters sun damage is not known.

Coffea arabica extract. Coffea arabica is the coffee plant, and there is research showing coffee extract to have antioxidant properties (Source: Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, June 2002, pages 3751–3756).

Coleus barbatus. Member of the mint family; can be a skin irritant. See counter-irritant.

collagen. A major component of skin that gives it structure. Sun damage causes collagen in skin to deteriorate. Collagen can be derived from both plant and animal sources and is used in cosmetics as a good water-binding agent. Collagen in cosmetics, regardless of the source, has never been shown to have an effect on the collagen in skin.

collagen amino acid. Amino acids hydrolyzed from collagen. These have good water-binding properties for skin. See amino acid, and natural moisturizing factors.

colostrum. The clear/cloudy "pre-milk" that female mammals secrete prior to producing milk. Colostrum contains immunoglobulins (disease resistance factors). While there is a small body of evidence indicating that adult consumption of colostrum may have disease-fighting potential, this is hardly substantiated, and there is no known benefit when colostrum is applied topically to skin. The only study that does exist showed colostrum to have no wound-healing function on skin (Source: Journal of Dermatologic Surgery and Oncology, June 1985, pages 617–622).

comfrey extract. Several studies have shown that comfrey extract can have carcinogenic or toxic properties when taken orally. Whether those properties translate to topical application of the extract is unknown, but its alkaloid content makes it a potential skin irritant (Sources: Chemical Research in Toxicology, November 2001, pages 1546–1551; and Public Health Nutrition, December 2000, pages 501–508).

Commiphora wightii extract. Has been shown to have cytotoxic components that may have a toxic effect on skin cells (Source: Phytochemistry, April 2001, pages 723–727).

Compact Foundations. It's perfect for those who are pushed for time, compact foundation is actually a combination of foundation and face powder, so a one-step application accomplishes both the foundation and powder steps. Compact foundations are ideal for oily and combination skin types because of the powder content, which has oil-absorbing properties.

compact powder. Any of various cosmetic or medical preparations dispensed in the form of a powder.

concealer. An opaque makeup used to cover darkness under eyes, redness of the skin, or anything irregular in the skin's color or texture. Comes in a waxy stick, cream, or opaque liquid formula.
concealers camouflage An opaque makeup used to cover darkness under eyes, redness of the skin, or anything irregular in the skin's color or texture. Comes in a waxy stick, cream, or opaque liquid formula.

conditioner hair A creamy, moisturizing, detangling hair product meant to be used after shampooing.
Hair conditioners are often used alongside shampoo to increase the texture and appearance of human hair.

Contour Blush Brush. This brush will be smaller than the large powder brush and will ideally be the size of the apple of your check and not any larger for precise blush application.

Conium maculatum. Also known as poison hemlock. When taken orally all parts of hemlock, including seeds, flowers, and fruits, are considered toxic and poisonous. Death has resulted after ingestion of hemlock. Prompt medical attention is advised after ingestion of hemlock. There is no research showing it to have any effect when applied topically on skin (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

copper gluconate. Copper is an important trace element for human nutrition. The body needs copper to absorb and utilize iron, and copper is also a component of the powerful antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase. Copper supplements have been shown to increase superoxide dismutase levels in humans (Source: Healthnotes Review of Complementary and Integrative Medicine, www.healthnotes.com). The synthesis of collagen and elastin is in part related to the presence of copper in the body, and copper is also important for many other processes. For example, there is research showing that copper is effective for wound healing (Sources: Journal of Clinical Investigation, November 1993, pages 2368–2376; and Federation of European Biochemical Sciences Letter, October 1988, pages 343–346). However, wound healing is the result of many biophysical processes that have nothing to do with wrinkling. See superoxide dismutase.

copper sulfate. Chemical effective for topical wound healing (Source: American Journal of Physiology Heart Circulation and Physiology, May 2002, pages 1821–1827). However, wound healing is the result of many biophysical processes that have nothing to do with wrinkling.

coriander. Herb and spice plant, the source of a fragrant component; it can be a potential skin irritant (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com). It may also have some antibacterial and antifungal properties, but these properties have not been established for topical use on skin (Source: Journal of Food Protection, July 2001, pages 1019–1024).

corn oil. Emollient oil with properties similar to those of other nonfragrant plant oils (Source: British Journal of Dermatology, June 1994, pages 757–764).

cornflower. Can have anti-inflammatory properties (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, December 1999, pages 235–241).

cornmint. Also known as wild mint; it can be a skin irritant. See counter-irritant.

cornstarch. Starch obtained from corn and sometimes used as an absorbent in cosmetics instead of talc. However, when cornstarch becomes moist, it can promote fungal and bacterial growth (Source: www.radiation-oncology.com/homecare/html/skin_13.htm).

costus root. Has anti-inflammatory properties (Source: European Journal of Pharmacology, June 2000, pages 399–407), but there is research showing that it can also inhibit the immune response (Source: Phytochemistry, January 2002, pages 85–90).

coumarin. Organic compound found in plants and derived from the amino acid phenylalanine. It creates the fragrance found in fresh-mowed hay. More than 300 coumarins have been identified from natural sources, especially green plants. These varying substances have disparate pharmacological, biochemical, and therapeutic applications. However, simple coumarins are potent antioxidants (Sources: Journal of Natural Products, September 2001, pages 1238–1240; Chemistry and Physics of Lipids, December 1999, pages 125–135; and General Pharmacology, June 1996, pages 713–722).

counter-irritant. Ingredients such as menthol, peppermint, camphor, and mint are considered counter-irritants (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, May 1996, pages 245–248; and Code of Federal Regulations Title 21—Food and Drugs, Revised as of April 1, 2001, CITE: 21CFR310.545, www.fda.gov). Counter-irritants are used to induce local inflammation for the purpose of relieving inflammation in deeper or adjacent tissues. In other words, they substitute one kind of inflammation for another, which is never good for skin. Irritation or inflammation, no matter what causes it or how it happens, impairs the skin's immune and healing response (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, November-December 2000, pages 358–371). And although your skin may not show it, or doesn't react in an irritated fashion, if you apply irritants to your skin the damage is still taking place and is ongoing, so it adds up over time (Source: Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227–237).

crushed mineral makeup Cosmetics made with minerals broken or pounded into small fragments.