Acacia senegal - Azulene

Acacia senegal. Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but that is used primarily as a thickening agent. See gums.

Accutane. Generic name: isotretinoin. A prescription-only drug derived from vitamin A, and which is taken orally. It essentially stops the oil production in sebaceous glands (the oil-producing structures of the skin) and literally shrinks these glands to the size of a baby's. This prevents sebum (oil) from clogging the hair follicle, mixing with dead skin cells, and rupturing the follicle wall to create an environment where a bacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive, which can result in pimples or cysts. Normal oil production resumes when treatment is completed, and the sebaceous glands slowly begin to grow larger again, but rarely as large as they were before treatment. "Because of its relatively rapid onset of action and its high efficacy with reducing more than 90% of the most severe [acne] inflammatory lesions, Accutane has a role as an effective treatment in patients with severe acne that is recalcitrant to other therapies" (Source: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, November 2001, Supplemental pages 188–194). However, Accutane is controversial for many reasons, principally because of its most insidious side effect: It has been proven to cause severe birth defects in nearly 90% of the babies born to women who were pregnant while taking it. Other commonly reported, although temporary, side effects of Accutane include dry skin and lips, mild nosebleeds (your nose can get really dry for the first few days), hair loss, aches and pains, itching, rash, fragile skin, increased sensitivity to the sun, headaches, and peeling palms and hands. More serious, although much less common, side effects include severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, changes in mood, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, decreased night vision, bowel problems, persistent dryness of eyes, calcium deposits in tendons, an increase in cholesterol levels, and yellowing of the skin.

acerola fruit extract. Acerola contains vitamin C (See vitamin C). However, the dry acerola fruit and powder are unlikely to be a good source of vitamin C because much of the vitamin C is destroyed during the drying and processing (Source: Natural Medicines Comprehensive Database, www.naturaldatabase.com).

acetic acid. Acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. It can be a skin irritant and drying to skin, though it also has disinfecting properties.

acetyl glucosamine. Amino acid sugar and the primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid. It is an agent that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective for wound healing. There is research showing that chitosan (which is composed of acetyl glucosamine) can help wound healing in a complex process (Cellular-Molecular-Life-Science, February 1997, pages 131–140; and Biomaterials, June 2001, pages 1667–1673). However, that is a few generations removed from the tiny amount of acetyl glucosamine used in cosmetics. Further, there is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to wounds.

acetyl glyceryl ricinoleate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

acetyl hexapeptide-3. A synthetically derived peptide. The company selling acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argirline), Centerchem (www.centerchem.com), is based in Spain and, according to their Web site, "Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release." I strongly doubt that any of that is true because there isn't a shred of research substantiating any part of it. However, even if it were vaguely true, that would not be good news for your body because you wouldn't want a cosmetic without any safety data, efficacy documentation, or independent research messing around with your catecholamines. Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as neurotransmitters such as epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine is a substance that prepares the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson's disease. None of that sounds like something you want a cosmetic to inhibit or reduce. What if you accidentally overuse the product or apply too much? It isn't known what excessive catecholamine release would mean for your body.

acetylated castor oil. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

acetylated hydrogenated cottonseed glyceride. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

acid. Anything with a pH lower than 7 is acid—above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5.

Acne Cleansers. Acne cleansers are generally used to remove accumulated oil, make-up, sweat, and dirt on the surface of your skin. In doing so, these products generally make it easier for topical acne treatments to be absorbed. However, excessive use of acne cleansers can also lead to irritated dry skin.

acne soap. Soaps that often contain very irritating ingredients in addition to harsh cleansers that, especially when combined with other acne treatments, can super-irritate the skin. There is no reason to overclean the skin, because breakouts have nothing to do with how clean your skin is! A study reported in Infection (March-April 1995, pages 89–93) demonstrated that "in the group using soap the mean number of inflammatory [acne] lesions increased…. Symptoms or signs of irritation were seen in 40.4% of individuals…." Furthermore, if the acne cleanser does contain antibacterial agents, the benefit would be washed down the drain.

active ingredient. The active ingredients list is the part of an ingredient label that must adhere to specific regulations mandated by the FDA. Active ingredients must be listed first on an ingredient label. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients are cC103onsidered to have a pharmacological altering effect on skin, and these effects must be documented by scientific evaluation and approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and benzoyl peroxide. See inactive ingredient.

adenosine triphosphate. All living things need a continual supply of energy in order to function. Animals obtain their energy by oxidizing foods, plants obtain energy by using chlorophyll to trap sunlight. However, before the energy can be used, it must first be changed into a form that the organism can readily use. This special form, or carrier of energy, is the molecule adenosine triphosphate (ATP). In humans, ATP serves as the major energy source within the cell to drive a number of biological processes such as protein synthesis. However, for the cell to use ATP it must be broken down by hydrolysis to yield adenosine diphosphate (ADP), which is then further broken down to yield adenosine monophosphate (AMP). Whether or not ATP applied topically on skin can affect cellular energy has not been shown. It is unlikely that this complicated chemical molecular process can be generated from the outside in.

advanced glycation endproduct. Advanced glycation endproducts, also known as AGEs, are caused by the body's major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, yet it also can bind strongly to proteins (the body's fundamental building blocks) and form abnormal structures (AGEs) that progressively damage tissue elasticity. Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, USA, March 14, 2000, pages 2809–2813). The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing aminoguanidine and carnosine to be AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes, but many other substances are potential candidates as AGE inhibitors as well. One study examined over 92 substances and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine (Source: Molecular Cell Biology Research Communications, June 2000, pages 360–366). AGE and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked (Sources: European Journal of Neuroscience, December 2001, page 1961; and Neuroscience Letters, October 2001, pages 29–32), but none of this has been shown to have relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances when they are included in cosmetics.

AHA. Acronym for alpha hydroxy acid. AHAs are derived from various plant sources or from milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) AHAs work as water-binding agents. At concentrations over 4% and in a base with an acid pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin-friendly; there is little research showing them to have benefit for skin.

AHAs may irritate mucous membranes and cause irritation. However, AHAs have been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and also have been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid (Sources: Cutis, August 2001, pages 135–142; Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2000, pages 280–284; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, March-April 2000, pages 81–88; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111–119; Dermatologic Surgery, August 1997, pages 689–694 and May 2001 pages 1–5; Journal of Cell Physiology, October 1999, pages 14–23; and British Journal of Dermatology, December 1996, pages 867–875).

Ajuga turkestanica extract. The only research about this plant indicates that it may have anabolic steroid properties (Source: Eksperimental'naya i Klinicheskaya Farmakologiya [from a Russian scientific journal], May 1997, pages 41–44). There is no other research showing this to be of benefit for skin.

albumin. Found in egg white, and can leave a film over skin. It can constrict skin temporarily, which can make it look smoother temporarily, but it can also cause irritation and is not helpful for skin.

Alchemilla vulgaris. Plant with antimicrobial properties. Its high tannin content can cause skin irritation (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, July 2000, pages 307–313).

alcloxa. More technically known as aluminum chlorhydroxy allantoinate, alcloxa has constricting properties that can be irritating for skin.

alcohol. A group of organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants that help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (See fatty acid) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or can become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol, which can be extremely drying and irritating to skin (Sources: "Skin Care—From the Inside Out and Outside In," Tufts Daily, April 1, 2002; eMedicine Journal, May 8, 2002, volume 3, number 5, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, February 2001, pages 25–27; and Contact Dermatitis, January 1996, pages 12–16).

Aleurites fordii oil. Oil from the Polynesian tung tree. May have antimicrobial properties for skin (Source: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, November 1995, pages 23–32).

alfalfa extract. Can be an antioxidant in skin-care products (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, January 2001, pages 308–314).

algae. Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms, in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. A number of these have been used for drugs, where they can work as anticoagulants, antibiotics, antihypertensive agents, blood cholesterol reducers, dilatory agents, insecticides, and anti-tumorigenic agents. In cosmetics, algae are used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants. For example, the phycocyanin found in blue-green algae has been suspected of allergenicity and of causing dermatitis on the basis of patch tests (Source: Current Issues in Molecular Biology, January 2002, pages 1–11). Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. These are all useful as sources for skin care, either as emollients or antioxidants (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, February 2002, pages 840–845). However, the claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are completely unsubstantiated.

alginic acid. Obtained by treating dry seaweed with acid to create a very thick, gelatin-like substance. It is used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. See algae.

aliphatic hydrocarbon. Hydrocarbon contained in natural gas and mineral oils. It is a synthetic fluid with varying properties that range from solvent to slip agent. See slip agent, and solvent.

alkaline. Anything with a pH higher than 7 is alkaline?below 7 is acid. Water has a pH of 7; skin has an average pH of 5.5. Skin irritation can be caused by products with a pH of 8 or over (Sources: eMedicine Journal, January 7, 2002, volume 3, number 1, www.emedicine.com; Cutis, December 2001, Supplemental pages 12–19; and Contact Dermatitis, April 1996, pages 237–242). Also, research indicates that the bacterium that causes acne, Propriobacterium acnes, proliferates when the skin is more alkaline (Sources: Infection, March-April 1995, pages 89–93; and Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy, September 1994, pages 321–330).

Alkanna tinctoria extract. There is research showing this extract to have antiviral and antibacterial properties (Sources: Planta Medica, August 1997, page 384, and January 1979, pages 56–60). However, information on some Web sites about hepatitis C has shown that this extract is toxic to the liver when consumed (Sources: HCV Advocate, www.hcvadvocate.org/HERBS.pdf; and Hepatotoxic Herbs,

alkyloamides. Identified on skin-care product labels as DEA (See diethanolamine), triethanolamine (TEA), and MEA (monoethanolamine), these are used primarily for their foaming ability in shampoos, but can also be used as thickening or binding agents. They can be skin irritants. In addition, alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that they may form carcinogens.

allantoin. By-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant.

all-trans retinoic acid. Active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova. See also tretinoin.

almond oil. Oil extracted from the seeds of almonds and used as an emollient. See natural moisturizing factors.

almond oil PEG-6 esters. Used as emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.

aloe vera. There is no real evidence that aloe vera (Aloe barbadenis) helps the skin in any significant way. An article in the British Journal of General Practice (October 1999, pages 823–828) stated that "Topical application of aloe vera is not an effective preventative for radiation-induced injuries…. Whether it promotes wound healing is unclear…. Even though there are some promising results, clinical effectiveness of oral or topical aloe vera is not sufficiently defined at present." There is research indicating that isolated components of aloe vera, such as glycoprotein, can have some effectiveness for wound healing and as an anti-irritant (Sources: Journal of Ethnopharmacology, December 1999, pages 3–37; Free-Radical Biology and Medicine, January 2000, pages 261–265; and British Journal of Dermatology, October 2001, pages 535–545). In pure form, aloe vera's benefits on skin are probably its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides.

aloe vera gel A concentration derived from one of the oldest medicinal plants known.

It has remarkable healing properties that can draw and hold oxygen to the skin.
It is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available.
The plants composition is similar to that of human blood plasma and seawater and, because its pH is the same as the human skin, it is extremely soothing and protective. It is a natural astringent!

aloe vera skin care Aloe preparations are derived from the leaf gel and the juice of a cactus-like subgroup of the lily family with some 300 species, among them Aloe Vera. The gel from the inner leaf is applied externally to soothe skin, help heal burns and promote cell repair.

alpha glucan oligosaccharide. Used as an emollient and has water-binding properties. See mucopolysaccharide.

alpha lipoic acid. An enzyme that, when applied topically on skin, can be a very good antioxidant. While studies of alpha lipoic acid do exist, none of them has been carried out on people, and none have been double-blind or placebo-controlled to evaluate its effect on wrinkling (Source: Clinical & Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 578–582). Most of the research has been done on human dermal fibroblasts in vitro (test tube) in cell-culture systems. In vitro results are interesting, but it’s not known if the results translate to human skin. These models do mimic human skin, but something that mimics human skin is still not the same as living skin. There is research showing that alpha lipoic acid, when taken orally, can have benefit in preventing cellular damage via its antioxidant properties (Source: Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences, April 2002, pages 133–166). Again, whether all that translates to the effect on skin is unclear. It is clear from the research that alpha lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant, but this isn't the only one and to date, there is no best one. See antioxidant.

Alpinia Officinarum root extract. May have antioxidants properties (Source: Mutation Research, May 2001, pages 135-150).

alteromonas ferment extract. Alteromonas is a gram-negative bacteria found in seawater. It may have water-binding properties for skin, but there is scant research supporting this.

alumina. Aluminum oxide, used as an abrasive, thickening agent, and absorbent in cosmetics.

aluminum chlorohydrate. Chemically a salt, and used in antiperspirant preparations. It can be extremely irritating on abraded skin.

aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Powdery thickening agent, absorbent, and anticaking agent used in cosmetics.

aluminum sulfate. Topical disinfectant and a typical ingredient in deodorants. It can be a skin irritant.

amino acid. Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body, such as: alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. Some of these amino acids can be synthesized by the body; others, the essential amino acids, must be obtained from protein in the diet. In skin-care products, these types of ingredients work primarily as water-binding agents, and some have antioxidant properties and wound-healing abilities as well. However, these substances cannot affect, change, or rebuild wrinkles. Whether the protein in a skin-care product is derived from an animal or a plant, the skin can't tell the difference. See also protein, and natural moisturizing factors.

aminobutyric acid. Amino acid that has water-binding properties for skin and may be an anti-inflammatory. It supposedly also increases growth hormone when taken orally, but the only support for this is a single obscure study that was conducted more than two decades ago in fewer than 20 subjects, and the results have yet to be replicated by other scientists.

ammonium chloride. Alkaline salt used as a pH balancer in skin-care products; it is not used in concentrations that would be problematic for skin.

ammonium laureth sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective. See surfactant.

ammonium lauryl sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective. See surfactant.

amniotic extract or fluid. There is some research showing pure concentrations of amniotic fluid (human) to have some benefit for wound healing (Sources: Journal of Hand Surgery, American, March 2001, pages 332-339 and Cornea, September 1996, pages 517-524). However, there is no research showing amniotic fluid to be effective for wrinkles or other skin care needs or when diluted in cosmetic formulations.

andrographolide. Component of Andrographis paniculata, an herb common to India and China. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (Source: British Journal of Pharmacology, January 2002, pages 399-406).

anise. Also known as aniseed; it can have potent antioxidant and antibacterial properties (Source: Phytotherapy Research, February 2002, pages 94-95), but its fragrant component makes this a potential skin irritant and it can cause photosensitivity

annato extract. Natural plant colorant derived from the flesh surrounding the seed of Bixa orellana, a shrub native to South America; it produces a deep yellow-orange to red color.

Anthyllis vulnera. There is no research showing this plant to have any benefit for skin.

antibacterial. Any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria, particularly in the case of bacteria that cause blemishes.

anti aging Anti-aging programs and treatments include cosmetic procedures for the face and body. These procedures help make you look and feel younger. They may include skin rejuvenation, anti-aging medicine, body reshaping, deep skin treatments, and much more
anti aging skin care Any type of method employed to reduce the effects of sun exposure, gravity, loss of elasticity, loss of tone, and to enhance the skin by means of creating more healthy tissue.

anti-inflammatory. Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness.

anti-irritant. Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, pain, itching, or redness.

antioxidant. Describes the function a specific ingredient can have on skin to reduce the effects of free-radical damage. Free-radical damage can be caused by the presence of oxygen or any compound that contains an oxygen molecule (such as carbon monoxide, hydrogen peroxide, and superoxide), sunlight, and pollution. Any substance that impedes or slows free-radical damage by preventing the oxidative action of molecules is referred to as an "antioxidant." Many vitamins have antioxidant properties, including vitamins A, C, and E, as do amino acids such as methionine, L-cysteine, and L-carnitine; enzymes such as superoxide dismutase and ecatalase; and coenzymes such as alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10. Other antioxidant compounds include glutathione and methylsufonylsulfate.

So what do free-radical damage and antioxidants have to do with wrinkles or skin damage? No one is exactly sure, but, theoretically, when free-radical damage originates from natural environmental factors and fails to be cancelled out by antioxidant protection, then wrinkles appear. If we don't get enough antioxidant protection, either from our own body's production, from dietary sources, or from other sources (including antioxidants we put on our skin), free-radical damage continues unrestrained, causing cells to break down and impairing or destroying their ability to function normally. Free-radical damage destroys collagen and other skin components. There are problems, however, with the hope that stopping free-radical damage with antioxidants can protect your skin, and these problems are that free-radical damage is constant and extensive. How could you ever use enough antioxidants to stop it? How much is needed? How much oxygen, sunlight, or pollution can you really keep away from all skin cells, or even some skin cells? How fast do the antioxidants you apply to your skin get used up? Do they last 20 minutes, one hour, two hours, or more on the skin? At this time, no one knows the answers to any of these questions for sure. Major investigations are currently under way in this fascinating area of human aging (intrinsic aging) and sun damage (extrinsic aging), factors that most unquestionably influence wrinkling. However, even though many respected researchers are working on this issue, the research is still in its infancy, and suggesting anything beyond that is sheer fantasy. See free-radical damage.

aorta extract. Obtained from hearts of animals. It is supposed to have rejuvenating properties for skin, but this has never been proven in research of any kind. Much like any part of a human or animal body, the heart tissue is a source of proteins, amino acids, and other water-binding agents for skin. Because of the concerns regarding Mad Cow Disease, ingredients like these are best avoided in skin-care products.

apricot kernel. A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.

apricot kernel oil. An emollient plant oil pressed from the seeds of apricots, and similar to other nonfragrant plant oils. See natural moisturizing factors.

arachidic acid. Derived from peanut oil and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

arachidonic acid. Produced from phospholipids and fatty acids. There is research showing that this is potentially unsafe and mutagenic when used topically, though more study is needed to decide this conclusively (Sources: Journal of Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, May 2002, pages 799–807; and Journal of Environmental Pathology, Toxicology, and Oncology, 2002, volume 21, number 2, pages 183–191).

arachidyl alcohol. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

arachidyl propionate. Waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

Arachis hypogaea extract. Extract of the plant commonly known as the peanut. It can have emollient and anti-inflammatory properties for skin, though peanut allergy is one of the five most frequent food allergies in children and in adults (Source: Allergy, 2002, volume 57, supplemental number 72, pages 88–93).

arbutin. Hydroquinone derivative isolated from the leaves of the bearberry shrub, cranberry, blueberry, and most types of pears. Because of arbutin's hydroquinone content, it can have melanin-inhibiting properties (Sources: Analytical Biochemistry, June 2002, pages 260–268, and June 1999, pages 207–219; Pigment Cell Research, August 1998, pages 206–212; and Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Treatment.